December 2007
Neighbors H & T are over for dinner. I’ve known H since 1985 (college), and T since 1997 – he used to come into Primitivo, peruse the wine list for half an hour, and find the ONE thing that I buried in there, at some incredible price, for enthusiasts to find. Because of him, I had to reprint the list far more often than I thought I’d have to. (One of things I am most proud of in my life is that they met at the ‘Vo, and had their wedding reception there.) All of us are feeling that 2008 will bring big changes into our lives. We discuss the possibilities of better opportunities in other communities, the merits of San Francisco over Seattle, the opportunities that have been presented to us over the last few months; what would be gained and what relinquished by accepting. Also: the Dutch painting exhibit at the Met, the Puryear and Seurat shows at the Modern, the Capa/Taro show at ICP that H saw a few months ago, and I just last weekend.
More importantly, it is a good reconnection. Both H & T have been insanely busy, traveling (H), working, dealing with the larger wine world (T), and having them in my kitchen is a lovely thing. It’s about 4 degrees outside (brrrr), and to avoid the opening and closing of the kitchen door that grilling would entail (aside: I grill year-round; fourteen below is my benchmark for cold-weather BBQ), I elect to sear the bone-in ribeyes in butter and olive oil and finish them in the oven. H haaaates the cold. Any effort to avoid opening and closing the kitchen door is deeply, deeply appreciated. I finish off the steaks in the oven and sauté shitakes and spinach. The meal is surprisingly decent. I’d never made steaks this way before.
At the end, what matters is with whom you connect, and how much of your energy and self you put into sustaining your friendships. (For true friendships, no amount of energy is too much.) H & T are two of my closest friends. I’ve been in a terrible funk for a few months, and they have been so present for me – without judgment or unsolicited advice; just there. They’ve just been good, good friends. That is a gift, really – H & T are two people for whom I feel deep and abiding affection and love. To open treasures from my cellar seems like an afterthought.
(Writing this, later, I have Over the Rhine’s “Eve” playing – this is a surprisingly fabulous album to accompany these wines (another aside: I’ve started playing my guitars again, and this recording has tasty, tasty playing), as both rely on bursts of energy and an abiding sense of underhandedness to make their point clear.)
2004 Brundlmayer Brut, Austria
Sweet, sweet nose. Apparently, this vintage the Brundlmayers took the Pinot Meunier out of the mix, so this is no longer a cuvée of “the five varieties of Pinot.” It is a blend of Pinots Noir, Blanc, Gris and Chardonnay. In comparison to my memory of previous vintages, this one has less crispness, but makes up for it with a rich, sweet nose and palate. The change in the mouthfeel is particularly noticeable – it is richer but not obnoxiously so, and the finish is all pears and red apples and white fruits … delicious. Wow. The wine still has great structure and presence but is less teutonic in outlook than many of its Austrian peers – it bends gracefully. (4.0-nb)
1998 Elio Altare, Barolo
I cannot add much more to all the accolades I’ve given the Altares over the years – Elio, and now Silvia – are two of the most talented winemakers in Piedmont, if not the world. These wines strike a balance between the modern and traditional that is the envy of many. The 1998 Barolo is fully mature and will drink well for another 6-9 years. It shows beautiful balance between primary and secondary fruit, especially black cherries and red plums, and dried cherry, and has lovely finish and tannis that are completely integrated and harmonious. There’s a deeply appealing chocolate element that I’m sure comes from the oak ageing but I find is so well-integrated that it doesn’t jump out in any weird or unusual “modernista” way. Loads of rose petal, anise and touches of espresso beans. A delight. (4.0+nb)
1989 Giacomo Conterno, Barolo, Cascina Francia
My goodness, I thought I’d died and gone to heaven. The insane nose of dried and pressed cherries and berries is almost indescribable. If it were, I’d be out of a job. Imagine a combination of dried and fresh cherries, black raspberries, leather, spices and meats, with violets and a tarry undertone. The mid-palate and finish are subtle and graceful in ways that a new-world cabernet can only aspire to. (Yes, I know that I just ended a sentence with a preposition. Shut. Up.) This is among the finest mid-aged Barolo I have tasted – is utterly sure of itself and needs nothing more. Developing beautifully. Drink now-2014. Kudos to Eilo and Silvia. (4.5-nb)
1982 Aldo Conterno, Barolo “Granbussia”
I bought a case of this wine from a public auction and have mixed experiences with it. A few bottles have been spectacular, a few less so. This one is definitely in the former camp - all fresh-poured asphalt and fresh-picked violets in the nose, and followed with lovely dried cherries and dried plums, leather, spices and raw meat. There is an appealing mineral aspect that frames the palate beautifully. The finish is a bit abrupt – more an effect of its age than any winemaking process, I think – but the overall experience is still amazing. The finish is beginning to dry out. Still, I think this is an amazing and complex wine. All smooth and velvety on the finish. (4.5-nb)
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