Barbera harvest is in full swing in Valmaggiore. The grapes are gorgeous. We walk through one farmer’s vineyards to get to Luciano’s plots. I am amazed by the sheer quantity of fruit in the neighboring vineyard: 10-14 bunches per vine. I pick a berry and taste it – yuck. All tart acid, no sweetness whatsoever. We cross over the dirt track into Luciano’s vineyards, where there are 4-6 bunches per plant, and the difference is startling. Even though Barbera is a high-acid grape, these berries have a balance of sweetness and acid that is extraordinary. Luca and Luciano talk, I listen to their Piedmontese chatter. They instruct me on the differences between Nebbiolo and Barbera, and shows how when a Barbera grape is pulled off the stem, a tiny drop of liquid pushes out of the stem-hole; clear with a faint hint of rose. When you see the rose tint, the grapes are ready. These are delicious, and I much on a bunch as we trudge back to the car.
The grapes come in at 6.30 and we crush until 9. I am home at 9.15, shower off the grape guts and in bed by 9.45, asleep almost before my head hits the pillow.
Friday is a day at the winery. More grapes will come in this afternoon, so we do the daily tasks quickly to get things out of the way before the next wave of fruit comes in. Luciano does a punch down. Andrea separates liquids from the solids on the vat of Sangue di Judas destined for the bulk seller. Barbara does not want her picture taken. They catch me taking notes in my little journal. Grapes come in at 4 and I am done at 7. Only 11 hours!
As I am walking out to my humble little Fiat Punto, I fall into a conversation with Barbara, and her daughter Alessia suggests I come with them for a pizza in La Morra. Excellent, except I am covered in grape gunk and kinda smelly to boot. They drag me along, up the hill, and we enjoy Neapolitan pizza baked in a wood-fired oven. Stefano and Alessia are great, fun kids – and Alessia is determined to get every last bit of her dessert off the plate …
Saturday, more grapes, more cleaning, and I learn to drive the tractors. In the morning, we are unloading and loading a delivery truck with the tractor-based forklift, which Luciano manages with the easy skill of someone who could do this in his sleep. All those hydraulic levers and buttons that make things happen – it all looks like a book written in a very foreign language to me. When we’ve finished the loading/unloading, Luciano tells me to bring the tractor around to the equipment shed. Who, me? Yes, it’s easy, he points at a few of the levers, saying here, here, and there, press that, e Boung! Vai! (People here say “Boung” a lot. I’m still not sure what it means.) I am nervous, and the thing is funky because the turning wheels are behind me, but this … is … kinda … fun. I need to get me one of these.
The lesson continues later – Luca is bringing the day’s grapes in with the big John Deere, when he tells me that I am going to learn to drive it today. He calls Luciano when they leave the vineyard site, and I am delivered to the tractor, where Luca, sitting beside me, instructs me on which levers, pedals and switches to touch, and which, on pain of death, to not even look at. Stefano has made a hand-drawn sign commemorating the harvest and painted his face with juice – Northern Italian warpaint, which will probably take three days to come off – and we hang the sign on the trailer before continuing on. Pretty soon, I am barreling down a back road (Ha! Barreling! More like uptempo crawling!) hauling the load of grapes.
Silvia joins me for dinner at La Rosa dei Vini, a country guesthouse with a simple traditional kitchen and a spectacularly well-priced wine list, filled with older vintages. She has had a rough day and so I am treating her to dinner. We have an amazing meal, each ordering the exact same thing: a baked tuma cheese to start, rough-cut pasta with leeks, then a rare bistecca. All good, and with Giacosa’s 1998 Faletto Barolo, most excellent.
Sunday I have off and read, write, clean the apartment and read the online newspaper – I am finally getting a wifi signal again! Silvia invites me up for Sunday lunch: Lucia has made an amazing Bollito Misto, the aromas of which completely overwhelm me as soon as I walk into their kitchen. It is amazing how some scents immediately make me feel at home – and this one, of a pot of vegetables and beef shoulder cooked long and slow, makes me want to sit down and just breathe it in. Silvia and Tes come in from the vineyards – they are picking today – and we wolf down lunch. When they go back to the rows of grapes, I return to Monforte for reading, writing and lazing. A good day.
1998 Giacosa Barolo, Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba (at La Rosa dei Vini)
This is still young and quite tight, but the aromas of tar, violets and cherries is compelling. Perfect with autumnal cooking. Medium bodied, like great pinot noir – I can compare this to nothing other than Volnay. It has the earthiness and backbone of an old European aristocrat. Wonderfully expressive on the nose, the palate is still closed and needs 5-7 more years. 4.0+
2007 Bovard, Dezaley Grand Cru, Switzerland (with the Bollito Misto)
The Dezaley vineyard near Lausanne is one of only two Grand Cru for Chasselas grapes in Switzerland. This has great minerality, clean pear and golden apple flavors and aromas, hints of nectarine and flowers and is just a pleasure to drink. Ageing will not improve it any further – drink up and enjoy. 3.5
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