Back in Barolo

Made it back to Barolo last weekend and am here for a few weeks working with Luciano Sandrone on outreach for the US market. Lovely to be back - I've seen old friends and am loving the warm sunny weather. Last night, from my apartment window, the sky was amazing - probably because of all the ash from the Icelandic volcanoes. We tasted through the tank samples of the 2009 Dolcetto today - six in all.

Luciano, Luca and Mario are working on the "assemblaggio" for the next release in September. Some of the samples are a bit reduced, but we taste through them and a clear winner emerges - one of deep berry and strawberry fruit, very soft and ripe tannins and good freshness - essentially, a super-drinkable Dolcetto that will be easy to enjoy from day one but has sufficient acid to make it a good food match. I also like another version with a bit more tannin and structure, but who wants to wait for Dolcetto? Not me. I vote for drinkability, as does everyone else. Out of curiosity, we try a super-rare bottle from the winery's library stock that is due to be re-released in their "Sibi E Paucis" program later this year ... the 2002 Le Vigne Barolo. '02 was an unmitigated disaster in the western part of Barolo, where hail destroyed almost 100% of the crop in September of that year. Even though vineyards on the eastern slopes were often almost untouched, there is such a toxic vibe about the vintage that many didn't release any wine at all that year. But now Roberto Conterno at Giacomo Conterno has decided to release a Monfortino 2002, and so Luciano is cautiously eyeing the market for his remaining 1200 bottles of Le Vigne. His wine was made that year from 3 instead of 5 vineyards, all on the Serralunga side of Monforte: Conterni, Merli and Cerretta di Perno. The wine is not one for the ages but is surprisingly fresh and vibrant. Lovely! 2002 Sandrone Le Vigne. On first whiff, a wallop of vanilla, milk chocolate and cherries: holy toledo, it's a chocolate cherry pie with whipped cream! In the mouth, smooth mouthfeel shows lovely cherry fruit, very smooth and sweet but the oak is initially forward in the mouth. As it airs for 10 minutes, the vanilla - oaky - chocolate recedes, leaving a core of dried cherries surrounded my mint and thyme notes, with lovely fresh acidity and good length. Very focused aromatics and nice silky finish. Not one for old bones but will be a lovely addition to a vertical tasting of Sandrone's wines, showing that the vintage might have been if hail had passed over: charming, lighter and aromatic, not unlike 1995, but with good structure. Drink 2011-2016. 3.0+