3.2.10. What can be said about this winery that hasn’t already been said? Bartolo Mascarello was a legendary figure in the Barolo, one of the few producers who categorically rejected modernist winemaking, acting as a cultural memory of historical Barolo. He’s a larger-than-life figure who has assumed mythic figure since his death in early 2005. I never met him. But I’ve loved his wines and have a pretty serious collection of his bottles going back to 1958, and I’ve continued to add to this collection every vintage. He spent many winters hand-drawing labels for his friends that expressed his artistic and political leanings: “No Barrique, No Berlusconi” has become a classic of subversive wine etiquettes.